Viet-Nama: Ha-Longing

Ha Long Bay, A View from the Sung Sot Cave

Did you know that the largest cave in the world is found in Vietnam? And, that this cave has its own fast-flowing river, ecosystem, and even a rainforest flourishing inside? Sadly, to visit this cave, you not only have to shell big money (and it’s quite an adventure) but it has a long waiting period. All the excursions for 2024 were already booked when I began planning the Vietnam trip, and I had to reconcile not seeing the caves. Yeah, the wonders that Vietnam offers are many, including caves, waterfalls, those terraced paddy fields, and the spectacular Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO natural world heritage site. 

A trip to Vietnam is incomplete without visiting the Ha Long Bay. Ha Long Bay features thousands of limestone hills and islets rising out of the sea.  It’s a spectacular sight to behold, and has been declared one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  The limestone islands come in various shapes and sizes, and have been subject to erosion over millions of years, resulting in some amazing karst topography, including limestone caves featuring stalactites and stalagmites, lakes, spectacular beaches, and even evergreen forests.  

Ha Long, A Panoramic View

These days, the government and the tourist operators are also trying to promote the Lan Ha Bay, as an alternative to Ha Long Bay to reduce the pressure on the Ha Long Bay and its fragile ecosystems.  Naturally, I too had factored in visiting the Ha Long Bay as part of my travel plans.  I also read about Lan Ha Bay and found out it was equally pretty, but it wasn't a certified UNESCO site, and hence I chose to go to Ha Long this time.  If I ever return to Vietnam in future, I would explore Lan Ha Bay.

Chilling on the Cruise

You may do either a short or a long trip to the Bay, depending on what kind of interest you have. The number of agencies that offer a trip to Ha Long Bay are innumerable.  Add to this, the complexity of the duration of the trip along with clubbing another location with it, and the permutations are mind-boggling.  You could  do a day-trip, a one-nighter, multiple days, and you could combine both Ha Long and Lan Ha Bays, plus you could add a few fishing villages here and there, and also visit Ninh Binh along with the Bay.  Then, you have cruises that cost from $120 per person to anywhere upwards of $300pp. Phew! The process of choosing isn't made easy at all. Because of this, I decided to defer the decision to book a trip to Ha Long. I chose to book it after reaching Vietnam.  I did the same for other excursions on the trip too - to the Golden Bridge (in Ba Na Hills), and the Mekong Delta (including the Cu Chi tunnels).

Every second (or third) shop in the Old Quarter of Hanoi sports the board of a travel agency - all of them book tours for Ha Long Bay (and other attractions).  While returning from dinner on the first day, we chose a random travel agency to book our trip to Ha Long.  The agent was a young lady, and went by the name Hana.  She told us that there were three classes of cruises (regardless of the length of our trip), and the best (of course) was the 5-Star Cruise, with each tier of cruise costing us differently.  After duly finding out the prices, we chose to go by a 5-Star Cruise.  Hana tried to sell us Lan Ha Bay.  "It is less crowded, and you'll have a great time"

"I agree.  But, I want to see the Sung Sot Cave and the Ti Tov Island"

"Ah, then you have to choose Ha Long trip", she relented.

It was already past 10 pm, and she still was working.  I asked her, "till what time do you keep the business running?"

"Usually till 10:30PM.  Sometimes it becomes 11". I learnt she starts working at around the same time in the morning.  12 hours of work!

Hana confirmed that berths were available on the cruise, after talking to the cruise people, and said it would cost $165 each. We weren't carrying cash, but she preferred cash. Using card for payment entailed another 5% charge, she said.  So, Sayambhu walked back to the hotel to get the cash, while I waited.  In the meantime, she told me that if we pay another $10 extra per person, we would be upgraded to the best cabin.  I chose to take that offer.  Sayambhu returned with the cash, we paid up, got the receipt, and headed back.  

Kayaking in the Luon Cave

By not booking from India online I reckoned I had saved quite a bit of money on a luxury cruise. However, it wasn't yet certain if we had got a great deal, or we were taken for a royal ride.  The cruise promised luxury stay, an amazing spread of gourmet food at each meal (and the itinerary said, they served four meals in total over the trip). The trip included tickets for sightseeing, kayaking, and even promised a session each of cooking (making fresh Vietnamese spring rolls), squid fishing, and Tai Chi.  It also comprised of us being picked up from Hanoi and dropped back to the hotel, post the visit.  I wondered about the economics of it all, and if they truly stuck to their word.

Hana, the travel agent, sent me itinerary and the meal plans for the cruise.  The food indicated was mainly meat based, and I also noted that it said, "If you are a vegetarian/vegan, please contact us. We will arrange for the same". I immediately sent a message to Hana that I am a vegetarian.  She promptly responded that she has sent the request to the cruise people.  I was sceptical though.

The Athena, our Luxury Cruise

The day of the cruise arrived.  We were picked up by a coach from the hotel itself; some more tourists were picked up along the way, and we set off to Ha Long Bay.  It’s a good three hour journey from Hà Nội, on the expressway. Only after arriving at the jetty from where the cruise actually starts did we learn that the coach was common to many different cruises - the passengers were headed to different cruises.  We and another couple from Scotland were going by Athena.  

We checked into our cabins, freshened up a bit, and returned to the dining area for lunch.  The cabin was as pictured in the catalogue - only smaller.  Evidently, they had used wide-angle lens to click pics to make it appear larger than life. However, the bed was comfortable, there was fruit in the room, and the bathroom had a bathtub too.  The cabin boasted of a spacioius private balcony too.  We later realised that it actually was the best cabin on board.  

Inside the Sung Sot Cave

As soon as we were back at the dining hall, the restaurant manager approached us, and asked, "Which of the two is vegetarian?" I nodded my head.  "Please come with me, Sir". He took me around and showed all the vegetarian fare that was part of the buffet. It consisted of many kinds of salads, breads, and a couple of stews.  He said, "Apart from these, we will be serving you a small platter on the table itself. Also, there are fruits and desserts". The 'small' platter they served consisted of more salads, sautéed vegetables, potato fries, pasta, and fried rice! I wondered how in the world would I finish eating all that. Meat-eaters had a whole load of stuff going for them, including a variety of sea food! 

Tit Tov Island and its Beach

The food was exceptional in both spread and taste. The service levels were equally impressive, at all the meals. The dinner was a sit-down affair, where the dishes kept coming like a long train! 

The Mighty Stalactites Inside

A cruise into the bay offers activities including exploration of a cave, and a bit of kayaking.  The cave we saw is called the ‘Sung Sot’, also named the ‘Secret Cave’, because as you keep exploring you keep walking into larger chambers, the last being large enough to accommodate over a thousand at a time. This also is considered the largest cave in the Ha Long Bay Area. Our scheduled activity of squid fishing had to be abandoned as it began raining in the late evening, and continued till morning. We skipped climbing at the Ti Tov island as rains had made the steps slippery, and I didn’t want to risk falling. Instead we just swam in the warm sea waters (yeah, it was warm despite the rains). 

Inside Sung Sot. 

Soon it was time to head back, and we returned to Hà Nội with great reluctance. Sayambhu and I wouldn’t have minded being in the bay for a couple more days. Those who plan to visit Ha Long Bay must remember not to let their expectations soar to the sky, as the area would be super crowded. There will be at least a 100 cruise boats (even in the leanest season) sailing around and visible all the time. If you expect the bay to be just yours, you have to find a different place to go, may be Lan Ha or Cat Ba. The Sung Sot cave was packed like sardines even in the lean season. It could get worse during peak season. Also, the climbing isn’t suitable for those with weak joints. I struggled too (as it was physically an off day for me). Usually, also, your tour manager tries to rush you through the cave; do not be too bothered. Take your time, see all those magnificent stalactites, and stalagmites, click pics, and then get back. They will wait.

Swimming at the Titov Beach