Vietnama: From the Hills of Da Nang to the Tunnels of Saigon....

 

European-style architecture at Sun World, Ba Na

What's travel without fun? It would be like reading our text books.  Innformative, full of knowledge, but totally boring.  I am generally a serious traveller - like a textbook! But, my company wasn't as boring or colourless as myself.  While I was going to 'see places', his idea of travel was 'food and fun'.  So, a plan was made to visit Da Nang before heading to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC).   Being the boring person I am, my choice to see in Central Vietnam wasn't Da Nang, but a city nearby called Hoi An, which boasts of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  While Sayambhu didn't say he didn't want to see Hoi An, he expressed his desire to indulge in some fun activities, to begin with (before we could do Hoi An).  

Da Nang and Hoi An are located at a distance of about 30km from each other, and Da Nang is where one lands, if one flies in.  After much dilly-dallying, I chose to book our accommodation in Da Nang itself, at a hotel that boasted of views of the beach.  The pictures were seductive and I was immediately sold! Also, it wasn't too far from the airport.  As we drove towards the hotel from the airport, we noticed that Da Nang was a much modern city as compared to Hanoi.  

View from the Hotel Room

Since we hadn't booked for any activities, we started looking at our options after reaching the hotel.  Sayambhu zeroed in on coconut boat ride for the afternoon, at a river near Hoi An.  Little did I know then that it would be the only brush with Hoi An I would have on this trip.  The boats are similar to the coracles we found in India - round, made possibly out of bamboo, yet called coconut boats because they take you on a ride through a coconut forest/grove; but they are more colourful, and the boatman a lot more fun than his/her Indian counterparts. The place was blaring some Bollywood music, thanks to the popularity of the rides with Indians.  The entire waterway was filled with the raucous people on boats, screaming and shouting, as the boatpeople twirled the boats over water.  We found a few young boatmen, dancing to the beats of loud music, as they twirled their boats over water.  

A Joyride in the Waters of Hoi An

One needs to haggle over the price for a ride here; what would cost maybe $6-7 pp will be quoted at, at least $15 to begin with (if you book online, you might get for a lower price too), and they even insist on paying tips to the boatmen/women.  While the ride is fun, it doesn't always leave a great impression when you need to deal with the touts. 

The rains from Ha Long Bay chased after us here too.  So, the trip to Hoi An town in the night had to be called off, and instead we stepped out to eat at a Japanese restaurant, not too far away.  The food in Da Nang beach area is ho-hum, because it tries to cater to the tastes of Western tourists (particularly from Australia); you have Australian pizzas, pasta, and what have you.  Even the food at our hotel (the breakfast spread and the taste) was subpar. An Australian we met in HCMC, said, "But, there's nothing to write home about Australian food!" No wonder the food at Da Nang sucked big time. 

One thing that Sayambhu wanted to see while we were planning the trip was the Golden Bridge in the Ba Na Hills of Da Nang.  I had read enough about it before coming: most of the trip operators offered a full-day tour of the amusement park, of which the Golden Bridge is a part.  I also had read it usually gets terribly crowded in the day.  After much searching, I found a tour operator who offered a sunset trip to the Golden Bridge.  We spoke over phone, and he said the guide would pick us up from the hotel at 1:30pm the following day, and we need to pay her the entire trip money (and we didn't have to pay online, and wonder if the trip was happening at all). 

Da Nang beach

Since our trip was happening post-lunch, we chose to explore the Da Nang beach in the morning, and also indulge in a bit of swimming at the pool.  Paris Deli (our hotel) had the best pool among the hotels we had booked ourselves at.  And, I didn't want to miss out on being in it, and get some exercise for the back.

The crystal clear pool at the hotel!

The guide - Ms Chang - arrived on time.  We by then had exchanged our dollars for VND (Vietnam Dongs) to pay for the trip.  We got into the car, and started driving towards the hills.  Only then did I realise that I had booked a private tour for ourselves, and we had a personal guide to boot.  The entire trip - pick up from hotel to the Sun World entrance, the cable car and costs of rides (except a few), guide fee, and the buffet dinner - cost us about Rs 14000.  It possibly would have cost less if we had taken a group tour (by about 1K per person), but this trip offered us complete flexibility on what we wanted to do, and where we wanted to spend extra time, and what time we wanted to return.  

I was sceptical of paying so much money to see a newly made amusement park as part of a tour.  I went though, hiding my reluctance and misgivings.  All of that was proved to be misplaced.  The amusement park - modelled as a French town with rides all around - was beautiful with those facades of castles, and churches (they even had a miniature Notre Dame too).  The amusement park boasts of the longest cable car ride in the world, and it is only expanding further.  

Riding the World's Longest Cable Car!

What blew me away were the flower gardens that have been created and manicured and maintained so well. It completely reminded me of Europe in the time just before autumn.  The weather too was similar - cool, breezy, and with just that little nip in the air. The place even had cobblestone alleys! 

The Gardens at the Sun World

There is one large hotel (Grand Mercure) atop the Ba Na Hills, and plans are afoot to start another one.  So, those who desire to stay back and soak up the luxury, can make reservations early. The views from atop are lovely. The rides are fun. The buffet is HUGE, with complimentary beers/drinks thrown in.  

Coming to the Golden Bridge.  A walking bridge has been constructed from one end of a cable car station to another, just to soak in the views of Da Nang. It is built to give an impression that it is held by two sets of giant hands in place.  It is the biggest attraction of the place and sees packed crowds through the day. My thoughts of going to the bridge late in the day proved correct, and for a short time, we had the entire bridge just for ourselves!

All for ourselves.  The Golden Bridge at Dusk!

We had initially thought that we would be back at our hotel soon after seeing the sunset from the Golden Bridge. Our plan thereafter was to head to Hoi An and see floating lanterns at the river in the ancient city.  However, by the time we returned it was almost 10 in the night, and we reluctantly gave up further plans to explore, as we had a flight to catch the next day.  However, I didn't forget to wake up early in the morning to watch the glorious sunrise over the sea, visible from our room!

From here, we proceeded to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), the largest city of Vietnam; it was earlier called Saigon, and is known for the resistance of the VietKong against the US military.  Since I was interested in history, we decided to take a tour of the Cu Chi tunnels. People built these tunnels with their hands to fight against the US army, used the bombs that were dropped to fashion weapons and use against the US soldiers. They constructed booby traps using bamboo and not metal! This was the first war of attrition that the US lost, and had to leave any country red-faced. The US lost a large number of soldiers, and they faced stiff opposition back home from public, and had to withdraw from this nation. The tour also offered us a peep into the Mekong delta, and its tiny fishing villages.  

This was also a trip that taught me some lessons that I am not going to forget easily.  More of it in another post. Thanks to flight cancellation (after reaching airport, and spending many hours), we got to stay another day in Vietnam, and that we spent swimming at the huge pool, just strolling about town, and taking some fun pictures. 

Entering Cu Chi Tunnel

Even though there are so many other attractions around Da Nang (including Hoi An, Marble Hills, and Hue), we didn't have the time to see them all, as we were not rushing from place A to place B.  I would love to do all these places if  - no, WHEN - I travel to Vietnam another time. I also have plans to see all those gorgeous waterfalls, rolling paddy terraces, the beaches of Phu Quoc too.  

Never stop dreaming! 

Airport Diaries 2: Apathy and Entitlement

 The queue was a little longer than usual, but since I was early at the check-in for the flight, I waited patiently, and without fidgeting. There was a bit of a commotion at the counter, as there appeared to be an argument between a flier and the person at the counter. 

I learn that it’s about being charged about excess baggage. “It’s hardly a kilo more!”, I heard the customer raising his voice exasperatedly. 

“But, Sir, the policy is you have to pay for every excess kilo. Your baggage weighs at 16.2”, the counter executive too had raised her voice. The man grumbled further, but relented, paid, and collected his boarding pass. “Indigo! If there’s Olympics for exactness, they’ll win all the medals!” 

A couple of minutes and customers later, it was my turn at the counter. I smiled at the executive, handed my phone and the ID Card, and said, “Having a tough day?”

“Every day we will have some who are tough on us, Sir. We are trained to take it in our stride”.  I smiled again, and said, “Very smart to remember”. 

“Please place your baggage now, Sir”, she too smiled. 

It weighed 16.4 kilos. “Now comes my turn to be told it’s excess and I’ve to pay”, I thought to myself. 

She nonchalantly tagged the bag, printed the boarding pass, and said, “Sir, your flight will take off from Gate 5”. 

I couldn’t resist. “You didn’t insist on my excess baggage payment?”

“You weren’t rude, either, Sir”.

******

There was a lot of time to board the flight still. I chose to pace up and down the waiting hall and collect my steps for the day. While walking, I noticed an elderly lady washing her plates and boxes at a water fountain. I completely lost it. How would anyone like to drink water from there while all that food stayed put!

Usually, I just bristle 99 times out of 100, and walk away from such scenes, cursing the uncivil ones. At best I might inform the janitors to do something. But this time, something snapped inside, and I sternly ticked off that lady. She said she didn’t know. Her husband who was just standing nearby told her, “You should be washing it in the toilet, not here”, in a language I too knew.

Me: You could have told this earlier to her. Or she could even see the board above  

She: I don’t know English. 

Me: Well, it’s also written in Hindi, and there’s a pictorial representation too. 

As they went quiet, and shamefacedly started cleaning the water fountain, their son walked in and asked what the matter was, to his father. Before he could say anything I interjected. 

“Isn’t it your responsibility to mind your old parents, and not make them do these chores at least at the airport?” By then people had begun to mill around to watch the spectacle. I grew both angry and embarrassed. Anger at our own lack of civic sense everywhere (heightened after my visit to Vietnam), and embarrassed as I hate being noticed in public. 

*****

The flight started boarding, and I occupied my aisle seat. There was someone at the window already, and soon a lady arrived to occupy the middle seat.  She busied herself with her book immediately after. 

Seat belt signs switched off after a smooth takeoff. The flight attendants started serving pre-booked snacks. I too had booked and I received it. Just when the attendants were moving away with their cart, the lady looked up from her book and called them out. 

“Excuse me! Can I have a spoon please?”

FA: Ma’am, we will come back to you after we finish these pre-booked snacks. 

Lady: But, I only want a spoon. You could surely give it and then go!

The attendants by then had moved a little more away. The lady started grumbling loudly again and again, “I only wanted a spoon. Can’t they bloody give before they serve others? What’s their problem??!!”, and when it appeared she would not stop, her neighbour told her, “Those who have pre-booked their meals will get first service. If you too had booked a meal, you’d get served”. 

She started her time again. “I am a simple person. I prefer to bring my own food. Simple”, she stressed on the word. 

“You know they don’t even have to honour your request. This isn’t a full service airline”. 

I thought this conversation might become confrontational, and hence intervened. 

“Excuse me, you could take my spoon. My Upma will take a while to be ready for consumption”, I added before she could protest. 

She gladly took it, and uttered thanks. I chose to bring my sting out then. “You say you’re simple. You could learn from Sudha Murthy. You know she carries her own steel spoons all over the globe?”

She glared at me, and opened her box of goodies. She was demanding a spoon to eat coconut laddoos of all things! I had a good mind to snatch it back. Thankfully, the attendant returned at that moment and saved any further escalation of drama.

Viet-Nama: Ha-Longing

Ha Long Bay, A View from the Sung Sot Cave

Did you know that the largest cave in the world is found in Vietnam? And, that this cave has its own fast-flowing river, ecosystem, and even a rainforest flourishing inside? Sadly, to visit this cave, you not only have to shell big money (and it’s quite an adventure) but it has a long waiting period. All the excursions for 2024 were already booked when I began planning the Vietnam trip, and I had to reconcile not seeing the caves. Yeah, the wonders that Vietnam offers are many, including caves, waterfalls, those terraced paddy fields, and the spectacular Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO natural world heritage site. 

A trip to Vietnam is incomplete without visiting the Ha Long Bay. Ha Long Bay features thousands of limestone hills and islets rising out of the sea.  It’s a spectacular sight to behold, and has been declared one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  The limestone islands come in various shapes and sizes, and have been subject to erosion over millions of years, resulting in some amazing karst topography, including limestone caves featuring stalactites and stalagmites, lakes, spectacular beaches, and even evergreen forests.  

Ha Long, A Panoramic View

These days, the government and the tourist operators are also trying to promote the Lan Ha Bay, as an alternative to Ha Long Bay to reduce the pressure on the Ha Long Bay and its fragile ecosystems.  Naturally, I too had factored in visiting the Ha Long Bay as part of my travel plans.  I also read about Lan Ha Bay and found out it was equally pretty, but it wasn't a certified UNESCO site, and hence I chose to go to Ha Long this time.  If I ever return to Vietnam in future, I would explore Lan Ha Bay.

Chilling on the Cruise

You may do either a short or a long trip to the Bay, depending on what kind of interest you have. The number of agencies that offer a trip to Ha Long Bay are innumerable.  Add to this, the complexity of the duration of the trip along with clubbing another location with it, and the permutations are mind-boggling.  You could  do a day-trip, a one-nighter, multiple days, and you could combine both Ha Long and Lan Ha Bays, plus you could add a few fishing villages here and there, and also visit Ninh Binh along with the Bay.  Then, you have cruises that cost from $120 per person to anywhere upwards of $300pp. Phew! The process of choosing isn't made easy at all. Because of this, I decided to defer the decision to book a trip to Ha Long. I chose to book it after reaching Vietnam.  I did the same for other excursions on the trip too - to the Golden Bridge (in Ba Na Hills), and the Mekong Delta (including the Cu Chi tunnels).

Every second (or third) shop in the Old Quarter of Hanoi sports the board of a travel agency - all of them book tours for Ha Long Bay (and other attractions).  While returning from dinner on the first day, we chose a random travel agency to book our trip to Ha Long.  The agent was a young lady, and went by the name Hana.  She told us that there were three classes of cruises (regardless of the length of our trip), and the best (of course) was the 5-Star Cruise, with each tier of cruise costing us differently.  After duly finding out the prices, we chose to go by a 5-Star Cruise.  Hana tried to sell us Lan Ha Bay.  "It is less crowded, and you'll have a great time"

"I agree.  But, I want to see the Sung Sot Cave and the Ti Tov Island"

"Ah, then you have to choose Ha Long trip", she relented.

It was already past 10 pm, and she still was working.  I asked her, "till what time do you keep the business running?"

"Usually till 10:30PM.  Sometimes it becomes 11". I learnt she starts working at around the same time in the morning.  12 hours of work!

Hana confirmed that berths were available on the cruise, after talking to the cruise people, and said it would cost $165 each. We weren't carrying cash, but she preferred cash. Using card for payment entailed another 5% charge, she said.  So, Sayambhu walked back to the hotel to get the cash, while I waited.  In the meantime, she told me that if we pay another $10 extra per person, we would be upgraded to the best cabin.  I chose to take that offer.  Sayambhu returned with the cash, we paid up, got the receipt, and headed back.  

Kayaking in the Luon Cave

By not booking from India online I reckoned I had saved quite a bit of money on a luxury cruise. However, it wasn't yet certain if we had got a great deal, or we were taken for a royal ride.  The cruise promised luxury stay, an amazing spread of gourmet food at each meal (and the itinerary said, they served four meals in total over the trip). The trip included tickets for sightseeing, kayaking, and even promised a session each of cooking (making fresh Vietnamese spring rolls), squid fishing, and Tai Chi.  It also comprised of us being picked up from Hanoi and dropped back to the hotel, post the visit.  I wondered about the economics of it all, and if they truly stuck to their word.

Hana, the travel agent, sent me itinerary and the meal plans for the cruise.  The food indicated was mainly meat based, and I also noted that it said, "If you are a vegetarian/vegan, please contact us. We will arrange for the same". I immediately sent a message to Hana that I am a vegetarian.  She promptly responded that she has sent the request to the cruise people.  I was sceptical though.

The Athena, our Luxury Cruise

The day of the cruise arrived.  We were picked up by a coach from the hotel itself; some more tourists were picked up along the way, and we set off to Ha Long Bay.  It’s a good three hour journey from Hà Nội, on the expressway. Only after arriving at the jetty from where the cruise actually starts did we learn that the coach was common to many different cruises - the passengers were headed to different cruises.  We and another couple from Scotland were going by Athena.  

We checked into our cabins, freshened up a bit, and returned to the dining area for lunch.  The cabin was as pictured in the catalogue - only smaller.  Evidently, they had used wide-angle lens to click pics to make it appear larger than life. However, the bed was comfortable, there was fruit in the room, and the bathroom had a bathtub too.  The cabin boasted of a spacioius private balcony too.  We later realised that it actually was the best cabin on board.  

Inside the Sung Sot Cave

As soon as we were back at the dining hall, the restaurant manager approached us, and asked, "Which of the two is vegetarian?" I nodded my head.  "Please come with me, Sir". He took me around and showed all the vegetarian fare that was part of the buffet. It consisted of many kinds of salads, breads, and a couple of stews.  He said, "Apart from these, we will be serving you a small platter on the table itself. Also, there are fruits and desserts". The 'small' platter they served consisted of more salads, sautéed vegetables, potato fries, pasta, and fried rice! I wondered how in the world would I finish eating all that. Meat-eaters had a whole load of stuff going for them, including a variety of sea food! 

Tit Tov Island and its Beach

The food was exceptional in both spread and taste. The service levels were equally impressive, at all the meals. The dinner was a sit-down affair, where the dishes kept coming like a long train! 

The Mighty Stalactites Inside

A cruise into the bay offers activities including exploration of a cave, and a bit of kayaking.  The cave we saw is called the ‘Sung Sot’, also named the ‘Secret Cave’, because as you keep exploring you keep walking into larger chambers, the last being large enough to accommodate over a thousand at a time. This also is considered the largest cave in the Ha Long Bay Area. Our scheduled activity of squid fishing had to be abandoned as it began raining in the late evening, and continued till morning. We skipped climbing at the Ti Tov island as rains had made the steps slippery, and I didn’t want to risk falling. Instead we just swam in the warm sea waters (yeah, it was warm despite the rains). 

Inside Sung Sot. 

Soon it was time to head back, and we returned to Hà Nội with great reluctance. Sayambhu and I wouldn’t have minded being in the bay for a couple more days. Those who plan to visit Ha Long Bay must remember not to let their expectations soar to the sky, as the area would be super crowded. There will be at least a 100 cruise boats (even in the leanest season) sailing around and visible all the time. If you expect the bay to be just yours, you have to find a different place to go, may be Lan Ha or Cat Ba. The Sung Sot cave was packed like sardines even in the lean season. It could get worse during peak season. Also, the climbing isn’t suitable for those with weak joints. I struggled too (as it was physically an off day for me). Usually, also, your tour manager tries to rush you through the cave; do not be too bothered. Take your time, see all those magnificent stalactites, and stalagmites, click pics, and then get back. They will wait.

Swimming at the Titov Beach

Viet-Nama: The Real Saga Begins

Turtle Tower, at Hoan Kiem lake, the Icon of Vietnam

It Is All About Food!

After checking out from the Imperial, we headed out to the hotel we had our reservations at - the Golden Lotus Luxury (Luxury to distinguish, because there's one without that tag, and the reviews stand at 1.7 out of 5 for that).  We were hungry, and my bloating had begun to seriously trouble me (and I wasn't able to locate my antacid).  First stop, a medical shop to buy sucralfate solution (yeah, only that helps). The lady at the shop didn't speak English much, and Google images helped.  We found sachets of the medicine (one sachet at a time, twice a day, the lady said), and I took one straight away.  Sayambhu wasn't yet in the mood for adventure vis-à-vis food, and suggested we grab something at a Starbucks close by (his favourite coffee place, and my least).  I assented.  

Pandan Cake at the Starbucks; the beginning of pandan obsession of Sayambhu

The place was huge, the seating available on two floors, and yet it was packed to the brim.  We barely managed a place to sit.  I got myself a hot chocolate, while Sayambhu got some pasta, a cake, and coffee for himself.  I managed to eat most of the cake though - a new flavour, pandan.  That began the journey of Sayambhu wanting pandan-flavoured everything all through our trip. Even when we were shopping for souvenirs, he wanted pandan flavoured chocolates, coffee, and what-not.  I was sure he would even pick up a pandanus bush for home, while returning.  I wouldn't be surprised if he now starts a kitchen garden just to grow this. Pandan is one of the earliest domesticated plant (a 'cultigen'), is sterile, and has fragrant leaves that are used in cooking across South and South East Asia. There is a species of pandanus that grows wildly in the Andamans, and even bears fruit (called pandanus); though it looks like pineapple, they are unrelated. 

Once we checked into the new hotel and took some rest, we headed out for our first Vietnamese meal at a nearby restaurant called, Met.  It was barely a few metres away from the hotel we stayed at; Sayambhu had chosen it based on google reviews (every place hereafter that we went may also be assumed so; the place had to have at least a 4.5/5.0 in the reviews for us to try). He promptly fell in love with the pho they served (we also had soup, and some starters).  Pho is a meal in itself; it consists of Vietnamese rice noodles and meat served in a clear, herbs-flavoured broth  in a bowl.  Usually, the meat is either chicken or beef. One adds a variety of sauces to it to make it more flavourful. Hereafter, at every place we dined, he invariably had pho (apart from other things).  His appetite for pho continued through the trip. 

Fresh Spring Rolls and Pho!

The breakfast spread at the Golden Lotus L matched any five-star property I had stayed at, and even surpassed several of them in quality and taste.  Their service was impeccable too.  Sayambhu got to appreciate the flavour of dragon fruit too (among other things, bacon and cheeses included). 

I am not a foodie, nor a hardcore meat eater; I barely nibble on some chicken and fish, and never miss meat in my meal.  Eggs are the only non-vegetarian constant in my meal. Usually, while travelling in other countries, I tend to eat chicken and fish as much as possible, to avoid looking for vegetarian dishes (if I readily find in the menu, I order them, as it's so much easier on my palate). Sayambhu though went a few steps further to ensure I get my quota of vegetarian stuff through the trip, by finding vegan restaurants - we tried one vegan restaurant each at Hanoi, Da Nang, and HCMC! Again, he applied his stringent 4.5 rule to ensure we visit the best places.  Needless to say, each of the places we went to dine offered delicious food, and exceptional service. 

I would like to recount just one experience of dining in Hanoi. 

The first night of Hanoi, Sayambhu found a place that said vegan on google, and said we would dine there - vegan because my tummy still hadn't stabilised, and I didn't want to risk eating meat.  The place boasted of great reviews. However, when we actually went there, we discovered it wasn't vegan, but was assigned so, since the place also served some vegetarian fare.  Since we were hungry we chose to dine there itself (and the food was as usual by Vietnamese standards, scrumptious).  But, the next day - to make up for the previous night's faux paus - Sayambhu found a place called, ‘Katze’ and we decided to walk to this place. Since we were in the Haon Kiem district (Old Quarters), most of the places - including all the traditional attractions - were in walking distance. 

The restaurant was about 700 metres away from the hotel we stayed at. It took about ten minutes to walk to the street, using google maps. Surprise! We couldn’t locate the restaurant, and we thought it might have closed down for renovation, and there were no updates. Since we had planned to see the one-pillar pagoda, we thought we would start walking towards it, and eat somewhere on the way. 

Suddenly out of nowhere, I saw the board, ‘Katze’, almost hidden by something dangling from the roof. We were happy that we didn’t have to find another place, and entered. 

The restaurant ran in two small cubicles of space, side-by-side. The space available was very limited, and the seating was very basic. I wondered if we had chosen the right place at all. We saw there were other - foreign - customers eating there, and that gave some confidence to sit. The menus were offered, and it declared, ‘Whatever you order, we will further serve one of the following free of charge’, and went on to list a set of salads, soups, and starters. 

Sayambhu ordered vegan pork, while the unadventurous me, went for vegan prawns. We also asked for fresh spring rolls. The proprietor of the place himself served the free salads and the short eats, and showed us how to eat - he took some salad and mixed with sticky rice, dipped them all in two different sauces, and literally fed the first bite to Sayambhu. The rest of the food too arrived in quick time. 

Every morsel we ate was yummy, and was an explosion of flavours for the taste buds. Sayambhu went ga-ga over the faux pork, and said it tasted almost exactly like the original! By the time we finished the meal, we were bursting at the seams, as the portions were large. No wonder the place enjoys a perfect 5 star rating on google reviews! 

It wasn’t just the food that was special at this place. The proprietor of the place was a boy on the streets, who grew up shining shoes. With hard work (and help from a charity), he went to school and today runs this place. Not just that, every year he - William Cuong - donates 100 million VND (Vietnamese Dongs) to charities that help children off the streets (amounts to roughly $4000). It’s two weeks since we ate there. I still feel overwhelmed about the whole experience. There are people, and then there are humans like William Cuong.

Cuong at his vegan restaurant, Katze

********

Justifying the Food We Ate

We were staying in the Old Quarter district of Hanoi.  It is centrally located, and at walking distance to most of the tourist attractions . Most of the great eateries too were just around the corner, and one could shop for all the souvenirs and coffee/chocolate right there (it's another matter we didn't shop; sigh!).  I had read up about the place before booking the hotels; heeding to the advice saved us quite a bit of money (and time).  However, we didn't truly know how closely we were to the monuments, until we used the Google maps to locate where the Hoan Kiem lake was.  It was about 300 metres away!

Ngoc Son Temple

So, our tour began with a walk around the Hoan Kiem lake (it translates to 'Sword Lake').  We noticed a small monument, called the Turtle Tower on a little island in the middle of the lake - the most famous monument of all in Vietnam, built in 19th Century (not that old by Indian standards).  There was another temple on another islet of the lake, called the Ngoc Son temple (again built in the 19th Century) in memorium of three sages belonging to Taoism. As we roamed about different historical places in Vietnam, we realised that turtle is the symbol that is most represented and revered in this country (in Cambodia, it is the snake, which gets incorporated into every building). Eastern cultures - including India - have so much connections with one another, I mused. 

As always, I found a tree by the bank of the lake, climbed it, and got myself clicked.  It was the closest I would get to a driftwood here. Of course, I made even Sayambhu climb over.  Seeing us, a couple came over and asked us to click their pics, with the husband climbing atop a branch. 

Monkeying as Usual!

Post seeing the lake and its monuments, we headed to the Train Street.  People throng to this place to see a train whizz past barely a few inches away from their faces.  The crossing is not automatic, and the gates are closed manually each time a train crosses.  A train time table is published regularly online to help tourists reach the place in time to catch a glimpse on their phones/cameras and upload on their social media handles (like I did too). On either side of the track, one finds loads of cafes - you could sit and trainspot while sipping on a coffee or a beer (if you are not willing to spend, you aren't welcome to occupy the seats).  For Indians who have grown up travelling in trains, this is no great experience, but for the White tourists (and the new gen Indian kids), this is something new.  By the way, the cafes that line up the track serve some awesome coconut coffee.  

Bustling Train Street at Dusk

The next day, we first set off to visit the One Pillar Pagoda.  When we walked up to the place, we were stopped from entering as our attire was considered inappropriate for the campus.  We were dressed in shorts and sleeveless tees.  Thus, we instead visited the Temple of Literature .  It was originally built in the 11th Century.  The correct name for the place should be Temple of Confucius.  This place also served as the first university of Vietnam.  It's a sprawling campus, with multiple courtyards featuring several lotus ponds.  The place is lush green, has Chinese style of architecture and buildings.  Indians who visit Vietnam should desist from comparing the ancient monuments found there to those found here, and say how great we were.  It is so annoying!

Temple of Literature & its Courtyards

We went back to the One Pillar Pagoda and the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh on another day.  Sayambhu - like a petulant child - did not want to come; he had taken the refusal the previous day hard, but he relented after much coaxing when I said I wanted to see the places. Originally he was excited to see the one pillar pagoda, but he was miffed that we weren't allowed to enter the previous day.  Once at the mausoleum and pagoda, he refused to get his pictures clicked, and grumbled 'racism' when he saw a few people in shorts and singlets that were allowed.  Even the carrot of another coffee or a visit to the train street wouldn't abate his annoyance. 

One Pillar Pagoda, the most important Buddhist Temple

The pagoda is found in the same campus that houses the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, and was built originally in the 11th Century, and has seen modifications thereafter.  It is the most well-known Buddhist temple of the country.  There weren't too many people when we visited, as it was drizzling a bit.  One is not allowed to enter the mausoleum of HCM, possibly for security reasons.  The mausoleum is built in a modern style, and looks imposing, but not noteworthy, architecturally. One possibly visits this more as a result of wanting to see the pagoda. 

The area where the mausoleum is located is called Ba Dinh, and it also houses important government offices and embassies.  We noticed that there was a police security post, at every circle here.  Each post had a cabin to take shelter for the police, and also a pedestal fan to keep the police cool in the heat.  Interestingly, Vietnam is still a communist country, one of the last in the world.  However, unlike in China, there are no social media restrictions here. Yet, the country is known for censorship and restrictions on media, issues of religious freedom, etc., though these issues may not be noticed at all by the visitors. 

Security at a Govt Building

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Tailpiece

Just like we explored different places to dine at, we also looked up some of the happening watering holes.  But, will write about them in another write-up, as this is becoming a bit long-winding.  

Viet-Nama: Journey of a Mad-Hatter

The Take-Off

Preface

I am a travel buff.  I possibly have been ever since birth, but discovered it only when my pay was adequate enough to step out and explore. Of course, I realised my love for it when I was in Bhutan in 2005, and travelled from one end of the country to another, on a road trip, but I still wasn't earning enough to set out anywhere. Come 2010, and my pay jumped thanks to promotion (and VI Pay Commission largesse), and I stepped out of the country to the UK alone (to see my sis, and to see the country).  The joy of discovering a new place all by yourself was exhilarating. I have been travelling ever since.  I have influenced others too to join in (and, have discovered I can be a decent travel buddy, too).

I hadn't stepped out of the country after my Thailand trip last October.  Japan didn't materialise in April.  So, was wondering where to go.  Sayambhu said he would join in too.  After considering multiple destinations, we zero in on Vietnam. He was clear that he didn’t want to travel 'unfriendly' nations, and that ruled out many a countries. “The weather though might be an issue”, I said, during our chat. It would be humid and wet when (if) we go in July/August. He  has no issues with any weather, he responded. So, I applied for permissions from my HQ (as a govt servant, one needs approvals from the govt before travelling abroad; and usually one is expected to apply for it at least a month before the travel), and when he travelled to Port Blair thereafter, we booked our tickets. After we agreed upon the itinerary for the weeklong sojourn, I booked domestic air tickets too (from Hà Nội to Da Nang, and from Da Nang to Ho Chi Minh) and our hotel stays. He would travel from Bengaluru, while I started from Port Blair. But, we took a common flight from Kolkata to Hà Nội. For the return journey, we flew together to Delhi, and thereafter go our separate ways. 

The travel day approached soon enough, and my travel plans came back from the HQ, duly approved. Even though I prepare well for travels, this time around, it became a last minute thing. 

The Take-Off

The day of travel arrived. I have a smooth sailing at the check-in counter (after an initial, minor hiccup with number of check-in pieces). Indigo Airline staff display unbelievable courtesy and I’m elated. With a smile I move to the security check. 

I place everything in the tray, and walk through the metal detector to the security guy to perform his mandatory screening. I notice he is tall, well-built and has his moustaches twirled up. He keenly observes me as he does his job of screening me, and patting me all over. 

“Sir, what is your age?”, he asks me in Hindi (‘kya umr hai aapka”)

I am surprised by the unexpected question and it takes a minute to register. He repeats it again. 

I say I’m 54 in English. Usually, my Hindi disappears when someone initiates a conversion in that language, and it repeated. 

I’ve stepped off the pedestal and now moved to collect my bag from the x-ray machine after due screening. The security guy calls out. 

“You’re amazingly fit" (“Ghazab ka fitness hai aapka”), he says. 

I beam, and mutter thanks. 

He then adds “What do you do sir?” (“Kya karte hain Sir aap?”)

“I’m in the Civil Services”. 

He immediately stiffens up. And says, “Sorry Sir. I thought you were into arts and culture. Actor”. (“Sorry Sir. Maine socha aap arts and culture mein hain. Actor”). 

I smile broadly, thank him again and walk toward the lounge. 

It seems the trip has begun on a positive note; I even wonder for a second if I need to board the flight at all, as I can possibly float all the way to Hanoi based on that compliment!

The flight to Kolkata was uneventful (flying by Indigo).  I had a long layover at Kolkata for almost 7 hours, and I hence headed out of the airport, in search of a good meal, and things to do to pass time. As soon as I head to a nearby mall, a torrential downpour started. I managed to reach a McD cafe, ordered myself a big burger meal. Soon I was cramping because the fries bloated my tummy to the size of a football! So much we love fast food, I cursed myself for touching them fries.  This bloating continued to trouble me even after we landed in Hanoi at 2 AM in the morning (0030 hours, IST). 

******

First Impressions

Morning 2am. 

Have arrived in a new country. We have made an error of not booking for the stay for the day/night of arrival. Our stay starts from 2PM, and the choice is either to stay late at airport or head to a hotel and stay.  We decide to go the hotel where we have booked and request for an additional day’s stay at extra cost, as it saves us from chugging our luggage across places.

The Two of Us

When we arrive it’s in complete darkness. We knock on the glass door, and the security guy opens the doors. We learn - with great difficulty, as the Vietnamese staff barely speaks any English - that there’s no accommodation available, the entire hotel is sold out. Most nearby hotels - as I walk around, wake them up, and find - are full too. 

We check online and find a hotel not too far away, to stay, at a reasonable price. We leave our luggage behind, as we would be back post lunch here itself, take the acknowledgement for the same, and head out. It’s barely a walk of about 250 metres. 

This hotel too - called the Imperial - is in pitch darkness. We wake up the staff. They realise we have booked for the immediate night/day, and get our room ready. We are amazed at their quick turn from sleepy joes to alert jays in a jiffy. 

Flowers at the Waiting Area: Imperial

The room is super-spacious, has two set of bay windows to boot. We have little energy left to admire, and crash in no time. We sleep till past 11am, wake up at around 11:30, and get ready quickly and, come down to the reception to check out. 

The Comfy Bed with an Ottoman at Imperial

The receptionist - a young lady who wasn’t there in the early morning when we checked in - greets us and enquires if our stay was comfortable. We affirm. As we hand the key card, take pics of the lobby (because it looks pretty, and because there's a piano), and prepare to head out, she says she has a small token/gift for us. She hands us two bags of coffee and filter, and says, “Have a great holiday!” 

I may not play, but I admire!

This gesture makes us almost cancel the bookings at the other hotel and stay right here at the Imperial. And, thus begins our adventure in the country that was called Indo-China.